Taiwan is a multiethnic country. In addition to the 16 Austronesian Indigenous tribes recognized by the government, the Han majority can be subdivided into Hoklo people (descendants of migrants coming from Fujian in China as long ago as the 17th century), those whose families arrived from various parts of the Chinese mainland after 1945, and the Hakka people.
The Hakka, who speak their own language and follow a unique set of customs, have existed as a distinct subgroup for many centuries. Because they first started arriving in Taiwan after Hoklo settlers had already taken control of the fertile coastal plains, they headed inland, where survival skills honed in the rugged backcountry of Fujian and Guangdong allowed them to flourish.
Despite challenging topography and occasional conflicts with Indigenous clans, Hakka pioneers succeeded in transforming what’s now the inland portion of Hsinchu and Miaoli, along with certain townships in Kaohsiung and Pingtung, into productive farmland. They grew sweet potatoes to eat, camphor, tea, persimmons, and citrus fruits to sell, and indigo for dyeing.
The Hakka people make up about one-fifth of Taiwan’s total population, but represent clear majorities in a string of towns and villages in the northwest. In addition to offering a distinctive culture, this region has an abundance of appealing landscapes, charming settlements, and delicious foods.
One of the most famous destinations in this heartland is Lion’s Head Mountain, the northernmost segment of the Tri-Mountain National Scenic Area. Since the late 19th century, Buddhist ascetics have been establishing shrines on this ridge, which straddles the Hsinchu-Miaoli boundary. Offering a blend of religious architecture, alluring scenery, and family-friendly hiking trails, it draws a mix of day trippers and overnighting travelers eager for a temple-stay experience.
Lion’s Head Mountain, the highest point of which is 492 meters above sea level, is less than an hour’s drive from the center of Hsinchu City. Those depending on public transportation can get here by bus; services include the #5805A Taiwan Tourist Shuttle from Zhunan Railway Station.
The #5805A can also be used to access Nanzhuang, one of just six townships in Taiwan certified as “slow cities” by Cittaslow International, the Italy-based global alliance of communities that embrace philosophies of “slow living.”
Nanzhuang’s tourist hotspot is the Old Street, also known as Sweet Osmanthus Alley. This narrow thoroughfare overflows with opportunities to sample and purchase local specialties like osmanthus syrup, pig cage buns (glutinous rice dumplings filled with shredded radish, dried shrimp, and minced pork), Hakka-style mochi, and lei cha, literally “pounded tea.” Western visitors often remark that the resulting beverage is more like breakfast porridge than the tea they usually drink at home, but all agree that the ritual of preparation is a lot of fun.
Like every region of Taiwan, the northwest has a number of lively festivals and fascinating traditional rites. The Taiwan Hakka Tung Blossom Festival celebrates the ephemeral beauty of “May Snow,” from mid-April to mid-May, when the dazzling white flowers of tung trees appear in such numbers that, from a distance, many of Miaoli’s hillsides look as if snow has fallen.
This phenomenon is an unintended consequence of Japanese efforts to develop cash crops during Japan’s 1895-1945 rule of Taiwan. Because tung oil can be turned into a waterproof material and the wood is suitable for making matches and toothpicks, imported tung seedlings were planted on a massive scale in hilly and semi-fertile areas inhabited by Hakka clans.
After synthetic oils and cheaper types of wood became available, the plantations fell into neglect. The trees are resilient, however, and continue to thrive. Because of the geographical overlap and the species’ tenacity — often likened to the legendary grit of the Hakka people — the tung tree has come to be regarded as a defining symbol of this community. To find out where and when the tung blossoms are especially bountiful, tourists can check the official website or ask at a visitor information center.
Throughout the year, the Taiwan Hakka Museum is an excellent place to learn about the customs and achievements of the Hakka people. It goes far beyond history and the trades (such as camphor extraction and tea production) that Hakka people once dominated, touching on the role Hakka individuals and groups played in Taiwan’s emergence as a democratic and diverse society. Admission to this museum, which is located in the center of Miaoli County, is free.
Rail enthusiasts will find themselves drawn to a cluster of attractions near the woodcarving center of Sanyi, a short drive south of the Taiwan Hakka Museum. At 402 meters above sea level, Shengxing Railway Station — an endearing example of colonial-era architecture — was once the highest point on the island’s conventional railway network. Apart from the occasional vintage steam locomotive, the only traffic along this stretch of railroad nowadays is electric “rail-bikes” from which tourists can take in the area’s gorgeous scenery at a leisurely pace.
Although the inland areas of Hsinchu and Miaoli are predominantly Hakka, the coastal communities are largely Hoklo. Baishatun is one such town. Apart from the influx of pilgrims during the annual pilgrimage, it remains a peaceful and unpretentious farming and fishing village for most of the year. On a day determined by casting divination blocks — in 2026, the pilgrimage will begin late on the night of April 12 — pilgrims will set out from Baishatun Gongtian Temple, carrying sacred icons of the goddess Mazu. Unlike other devotional parades, which adhere to schedules and follow fixed routes, the Baishatun pilgrims allow Mazu to “choose her own path.” They go wherever she leads, be it across fields, down alleyways, or into private homes. Widely regarded as one of Taiwan’s most authentic expressions of religious sentiment, the annual pilgrimage has been recognized as a folk custom of national importance by Taiwan’s Ministry of Culture.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Travelers interested in experiencing the 2026 Taiwan Hakka Tung Blossom Festival and/or exploring the Hakka heartland can gather additional information from the following websites:
Tri-Mountain National Scenic Area (multilingual)
Hsinchu-Miaoli Tourism Union (multilingual)
Tung Blossom Forecast (multilingual)
Tourism Administration (Ministry of Transportation and Communications) (multilingual)
The central government’s Tourism Administration and International Trade Administration are collaborating to encourage international travelers attending MICE events in Taiwan to explore the country through the Travel Incentive Program. In 2026, the program provides travel incentives of up to NT$2,000 per person per visit, with a maximum of NT$600,000 per proposal. The program aims to promote the development of both the MICE and tourism sectors, thereby supporting economic growth.
