The 90 islands that comprise Penghu County offer visitors a unique and memorable experience. Whereas Taiwan is characterized by its dense population and mountainous terrain, the Penghu archipelago presents a stark contrast with its emptiness and flatness.
Just 107,000 people live in Penghu, a majority of them in Magong, the county’s historic administrative center. This small city features relics associated with the worship of Mazu, the sea goddess revered throughout Taiwan, a Dutch incursion at the start of the 17th century, and the arrival six decades later of Shi Lang, the strategist who defeated Koxinga and brought Taiwan into the Qing fold.
Of course, Magong also has a modern side. Perhaps the most popular 21st-century addition to the cityscape is Xiying Rainbow Bridge, a 200-meter-long over-the-ocean footbridge at Guanyinting Recreation Area.
Until recently, life on Penghu was a struggle. Salt-bearing winds scour the landscape, and the soil is too sandy for many crops. Seafood has always been a dietary mainstay, so it’s little wonder that, back in the 16th century, Portuguese sailors dropping anchor here en route to Japan named this archipelago Ilhas dos Pescadores, or “Fishermen’s Islands.”
The charming yet weathered cottages that give the villages outside Magong their distinct character are made of coral stone and basalt, materials of which the islands have an abundance. Yet many visitors to Penghu are more interested in the ocean than what’s on dry land, and they have good reasons for their marine obsession.
It’s easy to fill an entire week with island hopping and beach activities. The most famous sight on Qimei Island is the Twin-Heart Stone Weir, built to trap fish at high tide but now a much-photographed emblem of romance. Ecologists based on Wangan Island monitor six beach locations where, after dark during summer and early fall, female green turtles wade ashore to lay their eggs.
The effort to protect Penghu’s green turtles was chosen as one of the Top 100 Stories of 2024 by Green Destinations, a tourism management organization based in the Netherlands. Back in the 19th century, long before government agencies and NGOs got involved, sea creatures benefited from the Buddhist-inspired practice of “mercy release.” Wishing to help neighbors who were so impoverished they had to catch turtles for food while at the same time hoping to earn good karma by releasing captured animals, more prosperous members of the community bought trapped turtles whenever they could and immediately returned them to the ocean.
Now that scientists understand that environmental disturbances may cause female turtles to abandon their nesting attempts, the emphasis is on protecting remaining habitats from development, human incursions, and pollution. Recognizing that public support is an essential element for such initiatives, Wangan’s Green Turtle Tourism and Conservation Center hires locals as rangers and in other roles, and encourages participation in turtle ecology workshops.
Popular watersports include jet skiing and banana boating at Aimen Beach, windsurfing and kitesurfing at Shanshui and Shili, as well as standup paddleboarding (SUP) and snorkeling throughout the archipelago. To get the most out of your time, consider signing up for a full-day guided tour that includes coral reef snorkeling, visiting an unpopulated island, and other oceanic fun.
This year, Penghu is packing even more fun into its sunniest months. Each weekend, a special two-day/one-night tour introduces a small number of outsiders to both the human expertise behind fish-trapping stone weirs and the rich ecology of the intertidal zone at Jibei, an island best known for the dazzling sand spit that extends from its southern tip. In addition to being an opportunity to learn traditional wisdom and modern environmental concepts, the tour includes stargazing and exploring a fishing community on foot.
One of the county’s most photogenic spots is Houliao Paradise Road. Actually, a breakwater was built to shelter a small fishing harbor, and the “road” curves toward the horizon. If you time your arrival for two hours before or two hours after high tide, the ribbon of concrete is flanked on both sides by algae-dappled rocks, greatly enhancing any images.
Few first-time visitors to Penghu make it to Yuanbei Island, but it often appears on the to-do list for those making their second or third trip to the county. It’s one of the best places in the archipelago to see columnar basalt terrain. One feature is said to resemble a traditional ink brush, like that used by calligraphers in the days of yore, while another is shaped like an inkstone. A leisurely walk around the island takes just a few hours.
The seabirds that gave Niaoyu (Bird Island) its name aren’t nearly as impressive as the basalt cliffs that dominate its eastern edge. Between Niaoyu and Yuanbei island, Pengpeng Beach is an accumulation of sand and coral fragments without human residents. Part of it is a designated bird sanctuary, while another section attracts watersports enthusiasts.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Travelers considering a visit to Penghu County can gather additional information from the following websites:
Penghu National Scenic Area (multi-language)
Penghu Tourism Union (multi-language)
Tourism Administration (Ministry of Transportation and Communications) (multi-language)
Meet Taiwan (MICE) (bilingual)
The 24-hour tourist information hotline (0800-011-765) is toll-free within Taiwan and staffed by speakers of English, Japanese, and Chinese.
The Ministry of Transportation and Communications’ Tourism Administration and the Ministry of Economic Affairs’ International Trade Administration are collaborating to encourage international travelers attending MICE events in Taiwan to explore the country through its Travel Incentive Program. In 2025, the Program offers travel incentives of up to NT$2,000 per person per visit, and a maximum of NT$600,000 per proposal. The goal is to boost the development of both MICE and tourism industries, thereby promoting economic growth.
