While crowds flock to Thailand or Bali, a lesser-known Pacific escape awaits just a three-hour flight away – serene, unspoiled, and still under the radar.
Story and photos by Dinah Gardner
Taipei winters are depressing. Every year, I fantasize about heading to a tropical island to escape the cold, damp, and gray weather that settles stubbornly in northern Taiwan. But I’m always put off by the hassle of getting there. Every recommended resort seems to require multiple flights, a flight and a boat, or all of the above followed by a long bus journey. However, this January a friend suggested a solution – a country that had until then never been on my radar.
Palau.
Often overlooked as a holiday destination in favor of well-trodden Thailand, Indonesia, and Vietnam, this tiny island nation of around 20,000 people in the western Pacific is an easy three-and-a-half-hour direct flight from Taipei. Apart from your hotel’s airport transfer, which could be as little as 15 minutes, that’s it. No more travel. You have arrived in paradise.
Palau offers breathtaking blue-hued seas, best explored through its world-class diving, snorkeling, and kayaking. Its hundreds of islands made of coral or volcanic rock are carpeted in deep green forests, creating a stunning backdrop to the patchwork of turquoise, indigo, powder blue, and navy. The beauty of the archipelago has been recognized by UNESCO, which awarded Palau’s Rock Islands World Heritage Site status in 2012.
Jungle trekking, World War II tourism, and cultural attractions make Palau a well-rounded travel spot. Best of all, its remoteness means it’s not heavily touristed like its Southeast Asian counterparts. The light footfall of visitors has helped protect Palau’s pristine landscapes alongside the country’s impressive environmental policies.
The island nation’s conservation initiatives have ensured its marine habitats are home to abundant wildlife. Palau became the first country in the world to establish a shark sanctuary, back in 2009. On every outing, I spotted sharks gliding through the water – a testament to how well that protection works. Upon arrival, immigration officers stamp your passport with the Palau Pledge, a vow to “tread lightly, act kindly, and explore mindfully.”
While I saw very little pollution in the ocean, it did surprise me that tour companies were handing customers water in plastic bottles. Nowhere, of course, is perfect. And other measures, like Palau’s ban on all sunscreens that aren’t reef-safe, underscore the island’s strong commitment to conservation.
Another reason to visit Palau is that it is one of Taiwan’s few diplomatic allies. You can even visit the Taiwan Embassy (an increasingly rare sight) on the third floor of the WCTC Shopping Center in Koror, the country’s only urban hub.
Palau is more expensive than Southeast Asia, though, with prices more on a par with Europe or the United States. However, there are ways to make it more affordable; you can book slightly cheaper tours (and for bigger groups) with Japanese companies like IMPAC Tours, stay in an Airbnb or older hotels such as the Penthouse Hotel, or rent a car to explore Palau on land by yourself.
While the Palau Visitors Authority maintains a great website, the country’s off-the-radar reputation means practical travel information can be surprisingly scarce. We’ve collected the key knowledge you will need for your trip to Palauan paradise.
Water-based activities
Palau is often heralded as one of the world’s best diving destinations, known for its exceptional visibility and abundance of underwater life. Depending on the weather, tides, and season, divers may encounter sharks, dolphins, turtles, rays, and larger pelagic species like tuna and grouper – alongside vivid reef dwellers such as the psychedelic parrotfish. The waters offer no shortage of challenges, from drift and wall dives to caves and sunken wrecks. Beginner divers and snorkelers can also explore the many sheltered reefs in the Rock Islands.
The standard Rock Islands snorkeling tour takes in around five spots, including the Milky Way – named for its chalky-hued waters created by the fine white limestone suspended in the lagoon. There, you are encouraged to slather your body in mud scooped from the sea bed, said to have therapeutic benefits. I enjoyed watching a tour group of excited Japanese students cover their entire bodies, hair, and clothing in the sediment until they looked like dancing ghosts. Snorkeling, I saw giant clams with frilly lips, black-tipped reef sharks that flitted like bats underwater, and fish with neon pink fins or snout-like noses grazing in a technicolor forest of coral.
Kayaking allows you to enjoy the beauty above water, too. My one-day kayaking trip through Risong Bay was without a doubt the highlight of my trip. The bay is protected from the swell of the waves by towering cliffsides, creating an enchanting excursion through placid emerald pools.
Ironically, Palau’s famous Jellyfish Lake only has a handful of the diaphanous creatures. In the past, you could swim with millions of stingless Golden Jellyfish – an experience that was likened to swimming with aliens. Changes in weather and ocean conditions have caused their numbers to dwindle, but they’ve bounced back before, so there’s hope the population will recover. Check the Palau Visitors Authority website for the latest updates.
I went with Neco Marine (snorkeling) and Paddling Palau (kayaking), both excellent and well-run outfits. Full-day tours with either company cost around US$200.
Land-based activities
Another major highlight is Babeldaob, Palau’s largest island, located just north of Koror and linked by the Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge. I teamed up with a fellow traveler, and together we rented a car to explore the island’s main sealed road – an 85-kilometer loop dotted with well-marked points of interest.
One of these attractions was a 30-minute trek through lush jungle, clambering over tree roots, rocks, and tumbledown steps to get to Ngardmau Waterfall – a thunderous cascade tucked deep in the forest. Further north lay Palau’s answer to Easter Island’s moai: the Badrulchau Stone Monoliths. These weathered black stones, some still bearing faintly carved faces, are far smaller (roughly human height) and scattered across a quiet, Zen-like clearing surrounded by trees.
Swinging back down the eastern side, there are deserted beaches and the world’s smallest capital city. Ngerulmud consists only of government and judicial buildings; there are no permanent residents. The Palau National Congress building is a replica of the U.S. Capitol Building. The project was financed by a US$20 million loan from Taiwan in the early 2000s. The grandiose white, cream, and pale green buildings rising out of the Palauan countryside are akin to a film set.
The Kingdom of the Northern Sky tour offered by a local government worker (contact the Palau Visitors Authority for more information) ends up at Ngerulmud. But first, guests are guided through the forest to visit a Bai, a traditional men’s meeting hall decorated by painted icons (snakes, sharks, spiders, people, and fish) and topped with a pointed thatched roof.
Along the way, you will meet Snowy the dog, learn how to drink from a coconut without using a straw, enjoy a delicious Palauan meal spread out on banana leaves in front of the ocean, and enjoy the laughter of villagers as you emulate their skills weaving grass toys and turning twists of dough into cookies.
Koror’s two main museums, the Etpison Museum and the Belau National Museum, also provide a good overview of Palauan history and culture. The latter has a life-size replica of a Bai in its garden.
The island of Peleliu to the south, which you can reach by public ferry or on a day tour, offers a chance to see relics of the fierce fight between the Japanese and Americans during World War II, including jungled-over tanks, guns, and downed planes.
Airborne activities
If the thought of flying in a tiny prop plane does not scare you as it does me, then a scenic flight over the Rock Islands offers an exhilarating experience. Try to secure a seat either next to the pilot or the open door for the best views and photograph opportunities. Expect to pay around US$200 for a 40-minute trip.
What about the beaches?
There are no easily accessible beaches on Koror, apart from at two resorts. The Palau Royal Resort faces east and has mellow sands that look out on the Rock Islands. There is also a nice spa next to the beach where you can get a soothing Balinese massage. The even more swanky Palau Pacific Resort faces west and thus can capitalize on stupendous sunsets. Both resorts charge a fee to non-guests to access their beach.
The northeast coast of Babeldaob and the Rock Islands have beautiful beaches; the latter are often visited as part of a snorkeling tour.
Where to eat
The predominant cuisines in town are American, Filipino, and Japanese. If you’re after more traditional Palauan dishes, the best option is the restaurant at the Penthouse Hotel. Its menu offers a local crab dish called ukaeb and fruit bat (plain or with coconut milk). I resisted ordering the bat but enjoyed the former dish, which consisted of tendrils of land crab meat suffused with coconut and served in the crustacean’s peach and white shell.
Tori Tori is a longstanding Japanese joint that has spot-on lunch sets of grilled fish, sashimi, and soba noodles. The more upscale Elilai Seaside Dining offers stunning sunset views to pair with your evening meal. And on hot afternoons, you can cool down at Japanese-owned Rur Café, which offers a long list of shaved ices (its signature is coconut milk).
Where to stay
Koror is the commercial center of Palau, where most of the restaurants, shops, and hotels are located. I was hosted by Palau Central Hotel, a well-run and friendly establishment whose spacious south-facing rooms have mesmerizing views over the Rock Islands from their balconies.
In the evenings, the area also proved to be a great vantage point for watching fruit bats swoop across the sky. Despite the presence of an attached bar (see below), the nights were surprisingly quiet, and I slept soundly. For a touch of whimsy, book the Starlight Room, which features a skylight offering views of the cosmos from the comfort of your bed.
The hotel serves a hearty Western-style breakfast and offers a swimming pool, a modest gym, and a lobby with a 1950s feel. The adjacent Canoe House features live music, Red Rooster – the local brew – on tap, and a solid menu of pub fare, including pizza.
I also stayed at its sister property, Palau Carolines Resort, which is perched on a hilltop a five-minute drive west across a causeway. There is a choice of high-ceilinged bungalows (newly renovated) or enormous luxury tents (newly built), far enough away from each other to feel quite private. The ocean views from their giant balconies were picture-postcard perfect. At night, the only sounds I could hear were the song of frogs and the trilling of roving geckos. Come dawn, I would wake to the boisterous call of roosters. The property is also home to rusty wartime relics of the Japanese who were defending Palau against the Americans in World War II, such as fragments of bomb casings and a large, mounted gun.
Preparing for Your Trip
How can I get there from Taipei? It couldn’t be easier. China Airlines flies directly in about three and a half hours to Koror on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, returning to Taiwan on the same day.
When should I go? Palau enjoys a tropical climate, so any time works. Most guidebooks say the dry season, November to April, is preferred. (Although when I went in March, fierce rainstorms broke the sunshine multiple times on most days.)
What should I take? A raincoat or umbrella (a must!) and reef-safe sunscreen, although all the tourist shops in Koror have this, so you don’t need to hunt it down before you go. Prepare cash in U.S. dollars (some places don’t take cards), but you can find ATMs at banks, some gas stations, and larger shopping centers.
How do I get around? There is no public transport and few taxis (if you are out at a restaurant, they can help call one for you). The fancier hotels offer shuttle services, and tour companies always do hotel pick-up and drop-off. There are a couple of car rental companies in Koror. We rented a vehicle from IR Motors & Car Rental, next door to the WCTC Shopping Center for US$35 per day.
What souvenirs can I buy? The tourist shops stock tacky and generic souvenirs such as keyrings, fridge magnets, and t-shirts. The widest choice and the absolute best selection of postcards is in the second-floor department store inside the giant WCTC Shopping Center. One of the few surviving Palauan crafts are storyboards – heavy wooden painted plaques on which legends and beasts are carved in bas-relief. Tebang Woodcarving Shop has three resident carvers who chip away by hand, sometimes for weeks to produce a single work. Smaller pieces often feature animals, such as dugongs, turtles, manta rays, and jellyfish, and retail for between US$70 and US$100, while larger pieces showing intricate scenes can fetch several hundred dollars.
