Beyond Taroko: Rediscover Hualien’s Hidden Wonders

Despite the powerful earthquake that struck Hualien on April 3, 2024, and caused extensive damage to the world-famous Taroko Gorge, Taiwan’s east remains a treasure house of natural and cultural attractions.

The Hualien Tourism Union has been working overtime to promote alternative sights and experiences throughout the county. This government-backed destination marketing organization brings together businesses, nonprofits, public-sector entities, and travel experts who share a passion for building low-impact, meaningful tourism.

The road and rail disruptions that followed the earthquake and last year’s typhoons are a thing of the past. Each day, several express trains zip from Taipei to Hualien in less than two and a half hours. For those who prefer to drive, the Suhua Highway provides excellent views of the Pacific Ocean and Taiwan’s highest coastal cliffs.

Prior to the earthquake, many tourists dedicated an entire day to Taroko Gorge, returning to Hualien only to sleep. The ongoing closure of the gorge’s trails and sights such as the Eternal Spring Shrine has encouraged visitors to discover the charms of the city itself.

Among these are reminders of the 1895-1945 period of Japanese colonial rule. A new addition to the tourist map is the General’s House, a set of tastefully renovated Japanese-style wooden houses built in 1936 as accommodation for soldiers and their dependents. Said to be the largest cultural-asset restoration project ever completed in Hualien, the completed site has been praised for its historic atmosphere, unique architecture, and aesthetic appeal.

The Pacific Ocean defines much of Hualien’s character, and whale-watching has long been among its most popular tourist attractions. Off Taiwan’s east coast, researchers have documented 31 species of cetaceans, including killer whales, pygmy whales, and several types of dolphins – many of which can be seen on guided excursions.

Qingshui Cliff (image source: Hualien County Government Website)

Voyages set out from the Port of Hualien and other points along the east coast. For details, contact the East Coast National Scenic Area (part of the national Tourism Administration) or one of the visitor information centers that can be found in airports and major train stations.

For those captivated by the ocean, Qixingtan Scenic Area is a must-visit. Swimming isn’t permitted – as at many beaches in the east, a combination of strong currents, riptides, and steep drop-offs means getting in the water is ill-advised – but the views from this pebbly shore are magnificent. After appreciating the dazzling blue sea, turn your eyes north to Qingshui Cliff and west toward the Central Mountain Range. Locals say that, if you’re able to stack seven pebbles on top of each other, you’re entitled to make a wish. 

Some visitors like to arrive at Qixingtan (known as Malongayangay to the local Sakizaya indigenous people) before the sun rises out of the ocean. Others come after dark to enjoy quality stargazing.

The scenic area, which is a short distance north of Hualien’s downtown, is served by a 35 km-long bike trail which goes all the way to Liyu Lake deep in the county’s interior. 

If you’d rather not pedal all the way to Liyu Lake (the name means “Carp Lake”) and you don’t have your own vehicle, you can reach the lake by bus #1139 or the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle’s 303B/303C service. Along the main road on the western side of the lake, you’ll find businesses where you can rent a bicycle or an e-bike for an hour or two.

Circling the lake is a leisurely experience, free of significant inclines. The cycle path is a mere 5 km in length, but you’ll want to go slowly as you drink in a landscape that fuses water, woodland, and mountains. If you get hungry, there are restaurants that specialize in Taiwanese country recipes and indigenous cuisine.

East Taiwan is packed with bike-friendly destinations, but few of them include a geological curiosity as fascinating as the one that riders on the Yufu Bikeway get to see.

The Yufu route – so named because it links the towns of Yuli and Fuli – makes use of an abandoned section of the Hua-lien–Taitung rail line. Several years ago, the tracks were relocated to avoid the tectonic boundary between the Eurasian Plate and the Philippine Sea Plate, because the constant millimetrical shifting had required an inconvenient and expensive realignment of the railway bridge over the Xiuguluan River every two years or so.

That bridge is now part of the bikeway, and midway along the former a bilingual sign lets riders know exactly where they cross from one plate to another. The disparity in gradient, visible upon close inspection, is a result of the Eurasian Plate being pushed under the Philippine Sea Plate, a process that continues to lift Taiwan’s Coastal Mountain Range.

Whether you rent a bike in Yuli or bring your own, you may want to ride a short distance west of the town center to the Shinto shrine site. These serene ruins date from 1928, when Taiwan was ruled by Japan.

Ambitious cyclists can aim for the western end of Provincial Highway 30, 16 km from Yuli and inside Yushan National Park. If that’s not enough exercise, a very pleasant hike starts right where the tarmac ends. This is the eastern end of the Batongguan Traversing Trail, one of Taiwan’s longest and most challenging thru-treks.

A half-day out-and-back hike as far as Jiaxin (site of a colonial-era police station) is feasible with minimal planning. Those wanting to go deeper into the national park, however, must first obtain entry permits. For detailed information, see the park’s multilingual website.

Since 2020, Fuli has been hosting a somewhat unusual arts event. The annual Rice Straw Art Festival is an opportunity to weave leftover rice straw – the eastern counties of Hualien and Taitung grow some of Taiwan’s best grain – into “sculptures” that are both gigantic and photogenic. Previous editions have featured gorillas, ostriches, owls, warthogs, and other creatures. And like many festivals and attractions in Taiwan, admission is free for all! 

TOURIST INFORMATION
Travelers planning a trip to Hualien can gather additional information from the following websites:
Hualien Tourism Union (multilingual)
Hualien Tourism Union (Chinese only)
Taroko National Park (multilingual)
East Longitudinal Valley National Scenic Area (multilingual)
Tourism Administration (Ministry of Transportation and Communications) (multilingual)

Back issues of Travel in Taiwan, a bimonthly English-language magazine sponsored by the Tourism Administration and filled with detailed articles, can be read online at travelintaiwan.net. The 24-hour tourist information hotline at 0800-011-765, which is toll-free within Taiwan, can answer all kinds of questions in English, Japanese, and Chinese.

The Ministry of Transportation and Communications’ Tourism Administration and the Ministry of Economic Affairs’ International Trade Administration are collaborating to encourage international travelers attending MICE events in Taiwan to explore the country through its Travel Incentive Program. In 2025, the Program offers travel incentives of up to NT$2,000 per person per visit, and a maximum of NT$600,000 per proposal. The goal is to boost the development of both MICE and tourism industries, thereby promoting economic growth.