
Ray Yen is the general manager of Smith & Wollensky and vice president of operations at S&W Restaurants in Taiwan. Yen returned to Taiwan in the late 2000s after nearly a decade of working in the culinary scenes of San Fransisco and Las Vegas and has since developed multiple high-end steakhouses here.
TOPICS Senior Editor Julia Bergström sat down with Yen at Sea to Sky, a restaurant under the S&W umbrella, in early December to discuss working in a high-pressure environment, technology’s role in the restaurant business, and what makes steak an exciting ingredient. An abridged version of their conversation follows.
How did you get into Taiwan’s culinary scene?
I returned to Taiwan 18 years ago and quickly met Chef Danny, chef-owner of Danny’s Steakhouse. Shortly after, an investor hotel wanted to open a steakhouse, and Chef Danny invited me to join him. Together, we opened A Cut Steakhouse for the Ambassador Hotel.
After some time, I left A Cut and pursued other ventures. Later, Chef Danny suggested it was time for us to open our own restaurant. Along with a few other shareholders, we opened Danny & Company in Taipei’s Da’an District. The restaurant was intimate, with only 40-46 seats, and was packed every night. It was a great success.
One of our shareholders was the owner of the now-defunct TransAsia Airways, which had a subsidiary inflight catering company. He asked me to head that company, and I served as its president for a little over two years.
After that, I launched Burger Ray. The idea was to combine fine dining ingredients and techniques with a fast-casual concept. For example, we used freshly cut and ground chilled beef and incorporated upscale ingredients like foie gras, truffles, and artisan cheeses. The goal was to make premium-quality food more accessible, without the formality of fine dining, while still cooking everything with care.
Unfortunately, I had to close Burger Ray due to the pandemic. Staffing was one of the biggest challenges during and after Covid. The competition for workers across all industries has been intense.
How have you adapted the concept of American steakhouses to the local market at Smith & Wollensky?
When it comes to steakhouses, the core values need to stay intact. People go to a steakhouse expecting great, consistent, juicy steaks in a non-stuffy environment. They want big portion cuts, a great bar scene, and that classic American steakhouse vibe, like Smith & Wollensky. We’ve kept those elements. Being on the 47th floor, we also take full advantage of the view, which is a big draw. Additionally, we’ve added live jazz music.
Another focus for us has been sourcing local ingredients. Taiwan has excellent pork comparable to gourmet options like Iberico pork. Pork dishes have been particularly popular because of Taiwan’s sizable population that doesn’t eat beef. We’ve also integrated local seafood, combining it with imported selections, all served in a more casual, shareable dining style.
To meet local preferences, we’ve gone beyond just the traditional steakhouse approach. Private dining rooms are essential here, especially for business or formal dining. Many customers prefer set menus over à la carte dining, so we’ve customized options to make decision-making easier. Personalization has become a key aspect of what we offer, which is less common in U.S.-style steakhouses.
How have you worked to improve operational efficiency at S&W?
When we first opened Smith & Wollensky, we handled everything on-site. Over time, it became clear that this wasn’t the most efficient approach. So, we moved our dry-aging facility off-site and hired a team of three full-time staff to handle aging, trimming, and butchering the steaks. They also prepare sauces, stock, and even baked goods.
By centralizing these processes, we’ve been able to operate more efficiently. For example, the team can prepare a week’s worth of stock in one day and distribute it to our restaurants. This saves time and labor at the individual restaurant level. Some employees also prefer working in a prep facility rather than in a restaurant environment, and this setup allows us to match roles with skills effectively.
Technology has also played a significant role in streamlining operations. Just five or six years ago, reservation systems required someone to constantly manage the phone and juggle seating arrangements manually. Now platforms like Inline have greatly reduced misunderstandings and inefficiencies.
Inventory management has also improved, particularly for steakhouses, where the stock-keeping units are relatively simpler than for seafood-heavy establishments. With modern systems, every delivery is scanned, allowing us to track food costs in near-real time.
What’s next for S&W Restaurants?
We opened our Taichung location about half a year ago, and we’re now in the process of expanding to Tokyo and Manila. Our location in Ginza, Tokyo, is scheduled to open in the first quarter of 2026. Our Manila restaurant, located in Bonifacio Global City (BGC), is planned for the late second quarter or early third quarter of this year.
We have the first right of refusal for most of Asia, so expansion has always been part of our plan. Covid, of course, delayed those plans. We were originally supposed to open in China in 2022, but now we’ve decided not to pursue that market.
Japan has always been a market we’ve wanted to enter. Tokyo is a prime location with a large population and significant international exposure. Manila also presents a great opportunity. The city already has established steakhouse names, which shows there’s strong demand for premium steakhouses. Metro Manila is a large, growing city, and we believe there’s room for one more major player in the market.
What’s your approach to management?
I believe the employees should find their own way of doing things. Everyone has a different personality, and I hate going into a restaurant where everyone acts the same way or says the same scripted lines. I want my staff to express their true selves – that’s part of the dining experience.
When people work here, they’re not bound by rigid SOPs. Of course, some tasks need to be done, but how they achieve their goals is up to them. We provide a framework, but they have the freedom to approach their responsibilities in their own way. That said, this environment wouldn’t suit someone who can only follow instructions – it takes someone who can think and act independently.
This approach has really shaped our corporate culture, and I think this philosophy is one of the reasons why people stay with us. Smith & Wollensky has been around for about six or seven years now, and around 50% of our staff have been with us since day one. In Taiwan’s F&B industry, that kind of retention is quite rare.
How do you keep your cool in high-pressure restaurant environments?
The great thing about this industry is that once a shift is over, it’s over. I think that helps the staff handle the rush better – they know they just need to get through it, and then they can breathe easy. For management, the pressure is higher. Cost control is critical, and balancing that with maintaining high food quality is a constant challenge.
But there are rewards that make it worthwhile. Whether it’s bonuses tied to performance or the satisfaction of achieving a goal, those rewards help everyone manage the pressure. We also make sure to give the team opportunities to unwind. We host regular gatherings where everyone can relax, share a drink, laugh, and bond.
Moments of appreciation from customers also make a big difference. A tip or a handwritten thank-you note goes a long way in making the team feel valued.
Throughout your career, steak has been a consistent focus. What is it about this ingredient that you find so appealing?
Anyone who eats beef loves steak. I started simply enjoying steak, but over time, I’ve come to appreciate the nuances in taste and texture from different cuts – ribeye, New York strip, filet, skirt. Each cut has its unique flavor profile and texture. Then there’s the cooking method, where each approach brings out something different.
Wet-aged steak has a juicy, tender texture, while dry-aged steak develops bold, nutty, gamey, almost cheesy flavors. Even how you slice your steak can create subtle differences in texture as you eat.
The same cut can also taste completely different depending on whether it’s grain-fed or grass-fed. Grain-fed steak has a sweet, buttery richness, while grass-fed steak offers a leaner, more beefy, and gamey flavor, often associated with Australian or Nebraska beef. It’s amazing how a single type of meat can offer such a variety of flavors and experiences. Steak is truly one of the most versatile ingredients out there – you can do so much with it.
How would you describe your ideal dining experience?
People dine out for different purposes. Sometimes it’s simply satisfying a craving or filling your stomach. Other times, it’s about spending time with friends in a relaxed environment. Then there’s business dining, which requires a more attentive yet unobtrusive setting.
If you’re with colleagues or friends, you want the atmosphere to feel lively. With family, it might be about creating a warm and comfortable space. Personally, when I’m out with friends, I enjoy being engaged by the staff. A restaurant’s staff contributes to its personality.
When it comes to fine dining, I also prefer places that don’t feel stuffy or overly formal. Especially in Europe, the pretentiousness can be off-putting at some Michelin-starred restaurants. I find it annoying to be required to wear a jacket just to eat.
Dining should be fun and emotional – a sensory experience connecting us to food and the people we’re with. Whether you’re out with loved ones, on a date, or just enjoying a good meal, pretentiousness detracts from the enjoyment. There’s no need to box yourself into rigid rules or expectations.