Just north of Taipei between Tamsui, a historic town that’s a first-tier destination in its own right, and the superb natural harbor of Keelung, Taiwan’s stunning north coast welcomes visitors with an alluring mix of scenery, culture, watersports, and seafood.
For those keen to get away from the bustle of the big city, the coast offers a true escape. There’s no need to drive, as frequent and convenient public buses – namely the 716 Crown North Coast Route running from the Tamsui metro station – make getting to Fugui Cape Lighthouse, Jinshan’s hot springs, and other attractions exceptionally easy.
Just west of Keelung along coast-hugging Highway 2 lies Yehliu Geopark. Yehliu is probably the north coast’s single most popular tourist magnet, and it’s not difficult to see why. The geopark preserves a 1.7 km-long peninsula strewn with captivating sights. There are caves, honeycombed outcrops, rock columns reminiscent of the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia in Türkiye, and geologic formations weathered until they resemble immense slabs of tofu. Wind and sea erosion have etched mesmerizing grooves and ripples into the sand-colored surface.
For many, the highlight is the Queen’s Head. This beguiling feature gained its name thanks to its resemblance to the Nefertiti Bust displayed in Berlin’s Egyptian Museum. Geologists have warned that it’ll eventually collapse, because each year sand-bearing winds erode the queen’s “neck.” No one can predict if that calamity will happen next year or in the next millennium, so perhaps you should pay a visit sooner rather than later.
This summer, Yehliu Geopark will again extend its opening hours so that travelers can experience its unique landscape after sunset. Between June 28 and July 14, nighttime light shows and dazzling projections illuminate the peninsula, telling stories and creating a dreamy, romantic atmosphere. There are also daytime art performances and environmental education activities. For details of 2024’s Yehliu Night Tours, check the North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area website or ask at any visitor information center in the area.
Other spots worth making time for include Baishawan, which many say has the most attractive beach in Greater Taipei, and Shimen Cave, a beachside arch carved out by wave erosion. The strange algae ridges known as Laomei Green Reef are visible only when the water is at low tide, yet many find the sight so enthralling they visit throughout the day.
Among the region’s manmade attractions are two places that nourish the spirit. Juming Museum was founded by and honors the achievements of Ju Ming (1938–2023), the most famous sculptor to have emerged from Taiwan. In addition to several of the deeply impressive works that won him an international reputation, this indoor/outdoor museum also displays paintings, ceramic works, and other treasures that Ju himself acquired.
The Dharma Drum Mountain World Center for Buddhist Education is, as its name suggests, a religious establishment. Travelers are welcome to casually drop in, but those seeking a more in-depth English-language introduction to Dharma Drum’s work should contact the center well in advance.
The busiest town between Tamsui and Keelung is Jinshan. This is also where Highway 2A – an exceptionally scenic road that links central Taipei with the North Coast via Yangmingshan National Park – meets Highway 2, and where many Taiwanese come to enjoy a range of hot springs. The town is blessed in having four types of geothermal springs: carbonic acid, iron-rich, oceanic sandy, and sulfurous.
As at Yehliu, the power of the ocean has given Jinshan some extraordinary rock formations. The half-hour hike from the town center toward Candlestick Beach will take you past a fishing harbor named Huanggang (“Sulfur Port”) and up to a pavilion from which you can see the Twin Candlesticks. This islet gets its name from a pair of unwieldy stacks, one fatter than the other, approximately 60 meters in height.
Just outside Jinshan, Jhongjiao Bay International Surfing Base has facilities including showers and eateries, as well as the kind of waves that attract surfing enthusiasts year-round. Jinshan is also a venue for standup paddleboarding (SUP) and other forms of seaside fun.
Reading about everything the North Coast has to offer, you may feel like you’re spoiled for choice. Fortunately, planning a trip has just become more straightforward, thanks to the creation of the Crown Coast Tourism Union.
Backed by Taiwan’s Tourism Administration, the union is a new destination marketing organization that brings together more than 80 businesses in Keelung and the New Taipei City coastal districts of Wanli, Jinshan, Shimen, Sanzhi, Tamsui, Bali, and Wugu. By pooling and sharing their expertise, this alliance aims to leverage the strengths and distinctive appeal of the Crown Coast in cooperation with local government agencies, community development associations, and other stakeholders, so the whole becomes greater than the sum of its parts.
The Crown Coast Tourism Union’s multilingual webpages carry details of each of its members. Among them are accommodation providers, restaurants which specialize in ultra-local fare, shops that sell handcrafted items, and entrepreneurs who offer sustainable agriculture experiences.
Among the union’s recent initiatives has been the promotion of gift boxes devised to reflect local flavors. Recognizing Keelung’s growing popularity as a cruise-ship hub, not to mention the North Coast’s proximity to both Taoyuan International Airport and Taipei’s Songshan Airport, the grouping is giving its members the tools they need to better serve international visitors. These tools include smart communications technologies and training to further professionalize the heartfelt natural hospitality of Taiwan.
When traveling in Taiwan, filling each day is never a problem. Rather than board a bus bound for Yehliu, cruise ship passengers arriving in Keelung might instead opt for an outing to the quaint hillside town of Jiufen. The world-famous National Palace Museum and its astonishing collection of Chinese artworks and cultural artifacts are a manageable bus or train ride away from Keelung. So is Taipei 101, formerly the world’s tallest building and the centerpiece of the country’s swankiest shopping district.
Heping Island is within striking distance of the Port of Keelung’s passenger terminals. Connected to the rest of Keelung by a problem pair of bridges, the island has both natural and historical appeal. Like Yehliu, it has a geopark crammed with photogenic rock forms. In the 17th century, it was occupied by the Spanish and then by the Dutch.
Alabao Bay is an alternative name for Heping Island Geopark, and last year the North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area Administration received the Pacific Asia Travel Association Gold Award in the Tourism Destination Resilience (Asia Pacific) category for its “Alabao Bay Secret Land Reappearance Plan.” This award not only recognizes improvements made at a spot praised for having one of the world’s most beautiful sunrises, but also Taiwan’s impressive progress in the direction of sustainable tourism.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Travelers planning to explore Taiwan’s North Coast in-depth can gather additional information from the following websites:
Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Service
North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area
Dharma Drum Mountain World Center for Buddhist Education
Back issues of Travel in Taiwan, a bimonthly English-language magazine sponsored by the Taiwan Tourism Administration and filled with detailed articles, can be read online. For all kinds of travel information about the country, visit the Tourism Administration’s website, or call the 24-hour tourist information hotline at 0800-011-765, toll-free within Taiwan.
